Pen Llyn Walks (from Brook Cottage Shepherd Huts)

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Pen Llŷn Walks

the collection

by Julie Brominicks

XXVIII

Pen Llŷn Walks

the collection

Introduction

Not only does Pen Llŷn boast a network of paths along a coast that

takes in mountains, cliffs, coastal farmland and beaches, it also has

a richness of winding lanes. Many of these lanes and footpaths that

criss-cross the peninsular are bordered by cloddiau (hedgebanks),

on which grow beautiful communities of flowers, ferns, mosses and

lichens. The labyrinthine lanes are best explored by bike or on foot.

Walking is not only good for the soul, but also increases your

chances of experiencing a myriad of diverse wildlife along the way.

These walking routes are guides only - do feel free to deviate from

them and devise your own adventures. Nevertheless we hope they

will give you a taste of this beautiful area and a glimpse into the

lives of those pilgrims, saints, farmers and fishermen in whose

footsteps you will be treading.

XXVIII

The Walks

Tre'r Ceiri

‘Roman occupation of Cymru was mainly military except for … in

the southeast, where the élite lived in villas and corn was grown.

Most people still had subsistence settlements, and in remote areas,

Iron Age forts and roundhouses remained occupied by British

speakers of Celtic languages. … Roman collapse had less impact in

Cymru than in England, where Latin language and Roman culture

had been assimilated. In Cymru, Brittany, Cornwall and Scotland,

the Brittonic language remained dominant with just a smattering of

Latin terms. And Pen Llŷn and Sir Benfro had been largely outside

Roman influence. Wolf, wild boar, wildcat, and deer still roamed.’

excerpt from The Edge of Cymru

The climate was milder than it is today, when Tre’r Ceiri was occupied and

certainly less prone to the storms we now have. Yet still, when the clouds

majestically roll down off Yr Eifl, you wonder what it must have been like to

live up here. Atmospheric at the very least. But cosy too, in these densely

packed huts, where wood or peat fires burned. The foundations of a

significant colony of 150 round and oblong homes are still discernible.

Stones everywhere you look. Ramparts and hut foundations emerging from

heaps of collapsed structures scattered on rocks and outcrops. A whole

summit of stones, as if the mountain has exploded to expose its shattered

bones.

Tre’r Ceiri is one of the best preserved Iron Age defended hillforts in

Britain. Its round (and oblong) houses were enclosed by a formidable four-

metre high rampart. Visitors were presumably channelled through two

major gateways, while residents used three less imposing entrances; one

which was for fetching water from the spring.

Tre’r Ceiri was constructed in the latter part of the Iron Age, as the climate

improved after a few cold wet centuries had forced people from summits to

slopes. And it remained inhabited during the Roman occupation, despite

being a stone’s throw from Caernarfon, where the Roman fort of Segontium

was built. Occupation ceased in the fourth century as the climate

deteriorated once more (and the Romans too, withdrew to Europe).

The view from here is spectacular! Iced light kaleidoscopes around the

valley, spotlighting bright white Llanaelhaearn in a bed of green hills. The

sky is alive; swift clouds, purple, white, black and grey are shifting at pace

over purple crags and red bracken slopes, while Eryri is a theatre of rock.

Meanwhile at my feet, radiant moss cushions the stones and frogspawn has

been delivered onto a wet tussock – I transfer it into a nearby pool.

VII

VIII

The Route

The Bus

No. 12 between Y Ffor and Llanalhaearn (destination Caernarfon).

Check times with www.traveline.cymru/

The Walk

9km (6 miles) Approx 3 hours

This involves some steep ascents and rocky terrain. Weather can change

quickly, so be prepared for low visibility, rain and strong wind.

For hill-walkers this is a delightfully brisk romp. The ascent of Tre’r Ceiri

(485 metres) involves a short stretch of road from Llanaelhaearn, after

which you’re in tussocky hill country. Path-finding is relatively easy, but as

always at altitude, be prepared for rapidly changing conditions.

As if the hill-fort itself is not impressive enough, the hills around Yr Eifl are

prone to radiant light, particularly on a crisp dry day.

1) After alighting from the bus, take a left turn to the church (admiring views

from the graveyard) then left onto the road and follow it uphill, ignoring the

first footpath. Tre’r Ceiri is the hill above you to your right, and Mynydd

Carnguwch is to your left.

2) At the second layby you will find a gate, an information board, and

waymarked path to Tre’r Ceiri. You need only follow the waymarks up the

steep hillside, which can be boggy underfoot when wet.

3) When you can see the stone wall on your left with a gate (which you will

go through later) turn right onto the path. Use this path for ascending to and

descending from Tre’r Ceiri. When you’ve explored the wonders of the fort

retrace steps to the drystone wall.

4) Follow the path leading towards Llithfaen, visible in the valley to your

left. (If ambushed by bad weather, Llithfaen has a shop, a pub, and a bus

service.) Several paths strike off to your right – the first goes up and over Yr

Eifl. If you don’t fancy that, keep on the path till the land levels out.

5) Bear right across fairly level common land. You should be able to see the

carpark down to your left. Keep on the path until it meets the Wales Coast

Path, which is a much wider path.

6) Turn right and keep to the Wales Coast Path. Note the village of Nant

Gwrtheyrn down steep slopes at sea level, the former quarry-workers’

village, which is now also home to the Welsh language learning centre.

Note quarries to your left – granite to pave cities and Scottish hurling

stones was excavated here. Keep an eye open for the resident mountain

goats.

7) Keep on the Wales Coast Path as it becomes a narrower track till you

reach a gate in a stone wall. The waymarked path is easy to follow along the

wall as it traces a route around the bottom of the cliffs.

8) When the path joins the road, follow it back to Llanaelhaearn.

Before your return bus pop into Pantri Beti, the community-run shop. Pick

up some groceries, support the local community and practise your

Cymraeg at the same time.

The Map

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